Chef Arnaud Bignon –The Young Chef at the Helm of Spondi
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Although there are really some fine restaurants in Athens, Spondi is arguably the best of them all. It has become an institution in the country. The doors of Spondi opened more than a decade ago. It was envisioned by its owner, Apostolos Trastelis, as the oasis of class, beauty and taste in the whole of Greece. The restaurant building used to be a refurbished old house which eventually became the Michelin-starred establishment it is now. Spondi boasts of two Michelin stars.
The restaurant has always been popular, but it is only with the arrival of its French head chef, Arnaud Bignon, that the restaurant truly became world class. This chef pursued his culinary career at such an early age. He gave up his academic studies at the age of 15 in order to pursue a culinary career. He studied, persevered and climbed up the rungs. Chef Bignon is far from being inexperienced. He had worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants like Ducasse, Drouant and Bristol. He was only 30 years old when he took became the head chef of Spondi.
The first thing he did when he took the reins at Spondi was to bring in a French staff to work with him. Over time, Chef Arnaud managed to bring the restaurant up the culinary ladder. He is very particular about the details. One can immediately sense the attention given to presentation. These things basically characterized the changes that the head chef made.
Chef Arnaud, like other master chefs, is very particular about his ingredients. He insists on the freshest ingredients. He would often use the seasonal ones though. Of course, this prompts the restaurant to change recipes and menu twice in a year. He is also a fan of molecular gastronomy. He loves to experiment with classic cuisines, giving them a modern twist. He also experiments with French-Greek food fusion. Of course, this is inevitable considering the fact that he has boundless supply of all things Greek. What makes his dishes spectacularly good, however, is the presentation.
The restaurant boasts of good starters and main dishes, but one must not definitely miss their desserts. You can skip the starter but you should not miss out on the dessert. You should definitely try the Charlotte. It’s a class by itself. No matter where you look at it really, Spondi is a world-class restaurant that is run by an exceptionally good chef.
Chef Arnaud Bignon’s Calf’s Sweetbreads with Licorice
and Roasted Carrots with Gingerbread Recipe
Recipe via World Wide Gourmet
Chef’s Note
The spice powder is made by pulverizing a piece of dry gingerbread (pain d’épice) in a food processor. A ladle with a little pouring spout is ideal for pouring sauces.
Ingredients
800 g (1 lb. 12 oz.) calf’s Sweetbreads
2 sticks of Licorice
250 ml (1 cup) milk
250 ml (1 cup) veal jus
1 knob of butter
Garnish
20 young Carrots, with tops
White chicken stock
20 g (2/3 oz.) powdered gingerbread (pain d’épice)*
Olive oil
Method
Soak the sweetbreads in water for 2 days to remove any impurities, then blanch them for 2 minutes, skin them and divide into 4 portions of 180 g (6 oz.) each.
Into each one, stick a half stick of licorice, halved lengthwise.
Peel the carrots, reserving the tops.
Begin cooking the carrots in olive oil, add a little white chicken stock and powdered gingerbread and cook until the liquid has reduced completely. At the end, sprinkle with powdered gingerbread.
Heat the oil to 160° C (325° F). Fry the carrot tops; drain and set aside on paper towel.
Cook the sweetbreads in oil in a skillet; when they are nicely browned, add a knob of butter.
Deglaze with a ladleful** of veal jus and glaze under the salamander for a few seconds.
Bring the milk to a boil and add some grated licorice and salt. Froth with an immersion blender.
Presentation
Place the sweetbread brochette in the center of the plate and arrange the carrots harmoniously.
Garnish with a sprig of fried carrot top, some licorice foam and the veal jus.
Image Credit World Wide Gourmet
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