Chef Michel Troisgros – Sticking to the Old But Opening to the New
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Some of the best restaurants in the world practically dates back to the early 20s or 30s – and one of these restaurants is Troisgros. The original owners, Jean-Baptiste Troisgros and his Marie, probably never imagined that their humble restaurant would someday be included in the prestigious S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Troisgros, however, is one of the best places to eat.
How Did It Happen?
In truth, it was not Jean-Baptiste and his wife who did the real work. It was actually their sons Jean and Pierre who actually made the real efforts in order to build a first class French restaurant. They actually studied the art of cooking under the tutelage of some of the best chefs in the country. By the time they took the reins in 1950, they were ready to create a gourmet restaurant.
Now, the management of the restaurant has passed hands. It now lies on the third generation of the Troisgros family – and the chef slaving behind the stove is another Troisgros, Michel. With the help of his wife, Michel has managed to place their family restaurant in the list of the world’s best.
The Happy Chef behind the Stove
You would expect that with an aged-old restaurant, Chef Michel would be more traditional in his cooking techniques. Au contraire –as the French would say – he is more attached to the modern methods; albeit, he does stick to true French style. Still, he tends to borrow from various influences. He continually travels all over the globe in order to get new ideas. He gets his ideas from Asian cuisines. His grandmother, an Italian, has also largely influenced his style.
Chef Michel’s true heritage is not the restaurant. What he has really inherited is his family’s love for cooking. As a child, he was always drawn to the kitchen. He loved the rhythm and the vitality. Not surprisingly, he pursued courses that are geared towards prepping him up for the business. He studied hotel management and then he moved on to study the culinary arts. As a top chef, he prefers to stick with minimalist cooking. He does not prefer flounces or excesses; although, he can be a bit playful with his ingredients, recipes and dishes. He ensures balance in texture and flavor.
The bottomline though is this – you wouldn’t really appreciate how he expertly and perfectly prepares his creations until you find yourself sitting at a table in Troisgros waiting for your treat.
Chef Michel Troisgros’ Tomates Chinois Recipe
Preparation and cooking time: 1 1/2 hours
Difficulty: Difficult
Ingredients
For 4 servings
20 cherry tomatoes
100 g (3 1/2 oz.) breadcrumbs
1 liter (4 cups) peanut oil for frying
150 g (3/4 cup) sugar
1 tsp. sesame seeds
5 g (1 tsp.) ginger
Syrup
100 g (1/2 cup) sugar
100 ml (6 tbsp.) water
5 coriander seeds
1 star anise
1 crushed clove
Orange and lemon zests
Batter for frying
100 g (3 1/2 oz.) flour
100 g (3 1/2 oz.) cornstarch
150 ml (10 tbsp.) beer
100 ml (6 tbsp.) water
15 g (1/2 oz.) baking powder
1 egg yolk
Method
Preparing the spiced syrup
Bring the water and sugar to a boil; add the spices and zests. Let infuse for 20 minutes; set aside.
Preparing the batter
1. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking soda dissolved in the beer, water and egg yolk. Strain the mixture to remove any lumps.
2. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours.
3. Just before using, whisk again.
Preparing and frying the tomatoes
1. Remove the stems from the cherry tomatoes and marinate for 1 hour in the spiced syrup.
2. Chop the ginger into small squares.
3. Drain the tomatoes, roll them one by one in the bread crumbs then dip them into the batter.
4. Place them, five at a time, into the frying oil (preheated to 160° C / 325° F).
5. When crispy, remove and drain on a paper towel.
6. Repeat until all the tomatoes have been fried.
Final preparation
1. Have a large bowl of ice water standing by.
2. Heat the sugar in a skillet and cook to a light brown caramel; add a drizzle of peanut oil and add in the fried tomatoes.
3. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and shake the pan so that the tomatoes are evenly coated.
4. Remove the tomatoes one at a time and immediately plunge them into the ice water for a few seconds.
5. Remove them, skewer each one with a toothpick, and include a small square of ginger on the bottom.
6. Arrange on a plate and serve immediate
Image Credit Dining in France
Image Credit and Recipe via World Wide Gourmet
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