Chef Pedro Subijana – “Fresh Produce Highlights Natural Flavors”

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Whenever a restaurant receives recognition from food critics and prestigious award-giving bodies in the culinary world, the praise is always credited to its staff, of course.  However, the biggest credit is given to its head chef, especially since his dishes are carrying not only the name of the restaurant but his name as well.  This year, Akelarre got into the top 100 list of San Pellegrino’s World’s Best Restaurants, landing at the 63rd spot.  This would not have been possible had it not been for Head Chef Pedro Subijana’s culinary skills.

Chef Subijana was born in Spain’s Basque Country, San Sebastian, on the 5th of November 1948.  He underwent his culinary education and training in Madrid and Zarauz, and after finishing his education and apprenticeship, he then went back to San Sebastian where he opened his own restaurant in 1975.  He chose Mount Igueldo in his hometown as the setting for his first restaurant, not only because of the splendid view that it gives but also because of the bountiful produce that the land provides.  In fact, his restaurant has its own garden where he gets most of his ingredients from.  He believes that fresh produce highlights the natural flavors of the dishes, so he only makes use of the finest as well as of the freshest ingredients to create his exemplary dishes.

He more than introduced Basque cuisine, but he gave it his own twist, creating a unique cuisine that is distinctively his.  Taking his inspiration from the land as well as from tradition, he made use of modern culinary methods to reinvent traditional Basque dishes and make them more contemporary.  His dishes surprised his diners that, pretty soon, his restaurant fast became a must-visit of gourmands from all over the country.  In time, Akelarre began attracting diners from other countries as well.

In 1983, Chef Subijana was named as the best chef in the country and he earned a National Prize for Gastronomy award.  Other awards and praises came pouring in.  His restaurant was given three Michelin stars, and he also became a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux.  His restaurant was also included in the San Pellegrino’s list of best restaurants.

These did not stop him through from doing more.  Chef Subijana began hosting a cooking show on the television where he taught cooking classes, and he has been doing this for more than 15 years already.  Aside from this, he also teaches cooking in his own restaurant where he gets to educate young chefs and train young apprentices in the art of cooking.  He also gets invited to teach in culinary schools.  In fact, he has traveled all over the country as well as throughout Europe to teach cooking.  His expertise has also led him to teach in the United States where he shares his culinary skills.  Numerous hotels as well as catering services have sought his advice and have asked for his expert opinion when it comes to the culinary industry.

Chef Subijana has also written and published books, and his culinary philosophy as well as culinary secrets has reached millions of homes and kitchens all over the globe.

Chef Subijana’s major aim in opening Akelarre was to introduce Basque cuisine to the international culinary world, and today, he has achieved more than that.

Chef Pedro Subijana’s Serrano Ham on Jellied “Menestra Cruda”

Ingredients:

  • 800 g (1 lb. 12 oz.) Serrano ham, in a single piece (Dry ham)
  • 1 liter (4 cups) Pork stock
  • 4 pig’s feet (Pork)
  • 1 calf’s foot (Veal)
  • 1 kg (2 lb.) veal shank bones

For the pork stock:

  • 3 kg (6 1/2 lb.) pork trimmings and pig’s feet
  • 100 g (3 1/2 oz.) each carrot, leek, onion and turnip
  • 1 liter (4 cups) red wine
  • Water
  • Oil
  • Salt and pepper

For the menestra:

  • 1 carrot
  • 1 turnip
  • 1 stem of chard
  • 4 green beans
  • Half a bunch of spinach
  • 4 tender almonds
  • 4 cloves of garlic, pickled in vinegar

Directions:

1.      Cook the ham with the calf’s and pig’s feet in 4 liters (16 cups) water. Cook over very low heat for 4 hours, turn off the heat and let cool.

2.      Remove the ham and other ingredients.

3.      Degrease the broth and return to the heat. Reduce, skimming the surface, until only 800 ml (3 1/2 cups) remain. Set aside.

4.      Cut the ham into 4 x 4 cm (1 1/2″) squares.

For the pork stock:

1.      Brown the bones and trimmings with the vegetable base (carrot, leek, onion and turnip).

2.      Once nicely colored, add the wine. Reduce, then cover with water. Boil until reduced to 200 ml (3/4 cup).

3.      Strain and season to taste.

For the vegetables:

1.      Blanch the spinach briefly and refresh in ice water. Liquefy in a blender and set aside.

2.      Cut the vegetables into very small dice. Blanch briefly and refresh in ice water. Set aside.

Finishing and presentation:

1.      Sear the pieces of ham in a non-stick skillet and place them on a baking sheet under the broiler with the pork stock.

2.      Baste the ham constantly to caramelize it.

3.      Add the vegetables to the reduced ham stock, bring to a boil and blend in the spinach juice.

4.      Ladle into soup bowls and place the ham on top.

5.      Garnish with a clove of garlic and an almond on either side.

Servings: Serves 4.

Image Credit: theofficialboard.com

theworldwidegourmet.com

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