Chef Philippe Groult – The Meticulous Chef

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The culinary skill of Head Chef Philippe Groult has given L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon a spot in the top 100 list of best restaurants in the world according to San Pellegrino. This restaurant is, in fact, the second restaurant of Chef Joel Robuchon’s to get into the list. It was Chef Groult’s culinary skill, dedication to his craft, and his meticulousness in details that gave them this very big honor.

Chef Groult recalls that, when he was a young child, the center and the heart of their home was their kitchen. It was the place where they will all gather around and share the meal. In fact, he would help out in their kitchen, preparing the ingredients or the meats. His early exposure to farm duties, kitchen work, and the taste of fresh produce and ingredients has sparked his inertest in the culinary world.

Chef Groult was born in Normandy. When he was 14 or 15 years old, he went to Chef Jean Fouquet’s two-Michelin star restaurant, the Crown, and found work in its kitchen. He trained under Chef Fouquet tutelage for about three years, and he learned all he could about the basics in cooking. After his stay at the Crown, he then went on to work with Chef Joel Robuchon, one of the most recognized chefs in France.

With Chef Robuchon, he not only improved his culinary skill, but he has also learned how to master his craft. Aside from this, he also learned that, to be a good chef, you have to have determination and discipline to pursue your career. It was also Chef Robuchon who taught him the importance of ambition and the love for the craft. More importantly, respect for produce and for the land’s bountiful products was instilled in him by Chef Robuchon.

All his trainings and his education have finally paid off for, in 1982, Chef Groult, who was then only 28 years old, was given an award, the Meilleur Ouvrier de France. This was a very big award and, in fact, he is the youngest chef who was ever given the title.

In 1989, Chef Groult finally opened his own restaurant, the Amphycles. Here, he was given free reign to create his own cuisine. He can cook some of the best French as well as Greek cuisine, and his culinary skill has earned his restaurant two Michelin stars. However, in 2004, the restaurant closed its doors.

In 2006, Chef Robuchon launched L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Hong Kong, and he invited Chef Groult to become its executive chef. Ever since Chef Groult arrived in Hong Kong, he worked with Chef Robuchon to create delectable cuisine that will whet the appetite and satisfy the cravings of its diners. Chef Groult poured all his dedication into his distinctive cuisine, and, in time, the restaurant began receiving numerous praises from food critics.

Under Chef Groult’s leadership, the restaurant earned two Michelin stars and got added into the top 100 best restaurants of the world by S. Pellegrino. With the culinary skill that Chef Groult has and his working relationship with Chef Robuchon, we are sure to anticipate more of their wonderful creations, dishes that simply burst with flavors and aromas.

Chef Philippe Groult’s Spider Crab with Caviar

Ingredients:

Court-bouillon:

1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
Zest of 1/2 lime and 1/2 lemon
1/2 tsp. fresh ginger
1 bouquet of thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. black peppercorns
1 liter (4 cups) white wine
500 ml (2 cups) spirit vinegar

Other ingredients:

4 male Spider crabs, 500 g /1 lb. each
4 female spider crabs, 1 kg (2 lb.) each
4 male spider crabs, 1 kg (2 lb.) each
300 g (10 oz.) fresh green seaweed, washed well
200 g (7 oz.) Caviar
1 tbsp. chopped chives

Ingredients for the cream:

100 ml (6 tbsp.) extra-virgin olive oil
Strained juice of 1 lemon
100 g (3 1/2 oz.) chopped French shallot
50 g (2 oz.) flat leaf parsley sprigs
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions:

Preparing the court-bouillon and cooking the crabs:

1. Bring 7 liters (7 qt.) water to a boil; add the carrot, onion, lemon zest, ginger, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns;

2. Boil for 3 minutes, then add the white wine and vinegar; return to the boil; reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes;

3. Bring back to a boil over high heat. Immerse 4 male spider crabs head first into the court-bouillon and cook for 12 minutes from the time they go into the water; remove and drain;

4. Skim the court-bouillon; repeat the process with the 4 females, then the other 4 males; set aside;

5. Prepare a large bowl of ice water; bring the court-bouillon to a boil over high heat and blanch the seaweed for 30 seconds, just until it it changes color;

6. Drain and refresh immediately in ice water; drain again and set aside.

Preparing the crabs:

1. Prepare 2 bowls, one for the crabmeat, the other for the liquid and coral;

2. Shell the 4 small males. Their shells will be used for presentation, so it’s not necessary to remove the meat from the claws;

3. Cut all around the head and remove the upper part of the shell;

4. Reserve the liquid and coral from the head. On the lower part of each crab, pull on the shell and remove the meat; rinse the shells under cold water and set aside; shell the remaining 8 crabs in the same way;

5. Using a spoon, remove the eggs under the belly of the females and reserve it;

6. Delicately break the claws with a hammer or nutcracker; remove the meat with a shellfish fork; reserve the creamy liquid and coral from the head; discard the shells;

Preparing the cream:

1. In a bowl, whisk the creamy liquid, coral and half the eggs to a fairly smooth texture;

2. Whisk in 5 tbsp. olive oil, adding it in a thin stream;

3. Add the lemon juice; season with salt and pepper; add the shallot and flat leaf parsley; set aside;

4. Be sure there are no pieces of shell in the crabmeat by sticking a skewer here and there; add half the meat to the cream; correct the seasoning and set aside;

5. Place the caviar in a bowl and add the remaining olive oil as well as half the chives; mix gently and set aside.

Finishing:

1. To serve, lay out the seaweed on 4 large serving plates;

2. Place the empty shells in the center; spoon the crab cream into the middle and place the remaining crabmeat on top;

3. Garnish with the caviar and the rest of the chives; serve immediately.

Servings: Serves 4.

Sommelier: Rosé champagne

Image Credit: prochedevous-enligne.com

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