Chef Pierre Gagnaire – The Famous French Chef

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Pierre Gagnaire is a very famous French chef and the owner of Pierre Gagnaire.  If there is one thing that could best describe him is that he defies the norm when it comes to French cuisine.  He steps out of the box and combines contrasting flavors and different textures, totally different from traditional French cuisine yet so exquisitely familiar.  His culinary skill has earned his restaurant three Michelin stars and a spot in the top 50 World’s Best Restaurant.  This year, they are at the 13th spot.

Chef Gagniere was born on the 9th of April 1950 in Loire.  He grew up in St. Etienne where his father, Jean Claude, owns and runs his one-Michelin star restaurant.  During his childhood years, it became a known fact in their household that one of his father’s children will have to step up to the plate and take over the responsibility of managing and running their restaurant, and since he was the eldest, he knew that it was going to be his responsibility.  His father instilled in them that responsibility and duty come first, and so, at the age of 14, he left their home to become an apprentice at Chez Juliette where he stayed for two years, after which he went to work for Paul Bocuse, a chef considered as the greatest in France.  After a summer stint with Paul Bocuse, he went back to Chez Juliette.  However, in 1970, he was called for his mandatory stay in the military, and during the period that he was serving his country, he was working as a navy chef, a job, he says, that he loved.

But his stay with the navy did not last long for he has to go back to Etienne to manage their family-owned restaurant.  When he went back home, his parents handed over the reins to him, and with the help and guidance of his father, he finally took his place as the head of the restaurant.  However, when his father retired, they closed the restaurant.

Chef Gagnaire had only one dream and only one ambition – to become a chef and make something out of nothing – and in 1980, he finally launched his own restaurant, proudly displaying his name over the door.  It was not long after that he began receiving accolades, praises, and awards for his creations, and 13 years after, he is a proud owner of three Michelin stars.  The fact that his restaurant had three Michelin stars to its name was not a small feat because it was so hard for restaurants in France to get these much-coveted stars then.

With three Michelin stars and a spot in the top 50 best restaurants list, diners have so much to look forward to when they dine at Pierre Gagnaire or his other restaurants located worldwide.  His dishes may be unconventional and very contemporary French cuisine, but you will still appreciate a hint of tradition behind each dish that he serves.

Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s Hot-Smoked Salmon with Aubergine Puree and Fresh Herbs

* In summer you can substitute the green asparagus for mangetout or garden peas. The watercress juice and aubergine purée can be prepared in advance.

Ingredients:

  • 1 aubergine
  • 1 clove of garlic, peeled
  • 2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • for the watercress juice
  • 1 bunch of watercress, leaves only
  • 4 tbsp chicken stock
  • 450g fillet of hot-smoked salmon
  • 8 very thin slices of toasted ‘beggar’s bread’ (sourdough raisin and nut bread; see poilane.com)about 4 tsp unsalted butter (Gagnaire seasons the butter with 4 pinches chopped wakame or dulse seaweed, available from Asian/Oriental shops)
  • 16 asparagus stalks (or two handfuls mangetout, or 4 tbsp garden peas)
  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 8 French radishes, very thinly sliced
  • the leaves from 2 sprigs fresh chervil, dill or parsley

Directions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Bake the aubergine whole until soft and collapsed in appearance (30-40 minutes), then remove from the oven. Scoop out the flesh and allow to cool. Rub the inside of a bowl with the clove of garlic and discard. Add the aubergine flesh, some salt and oil and mash to a smooth paste.
  2. Put the watercress leaves in boiling water for one minute, then drain well. Purée in a liquidiser with the chicken stock and blend to a thin, smooth juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  3. Put the salmon between two sheets of baking paper or clingfilm and flatten as much as possible with the side of a kitchen knife. Slice into four pieces. Poach the asparagus stalks in boiling water for four to five minutes so they are still slightly firm. Cut off the tips and roll them in half the watercress juice with half the olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. Slice the stalks into chunks and roll in the remaining olive oil, again with a pinch of salt.
  4. Now build the dish: spread the aubergine caviar on four pieces of toast and divide among four plates. Place a piece of salmon on each, topped with a couple of pieces of asparagus. Put the second slice of toasted bread over the salmon with a teaspoon of butter on top of the toast. Put under a grill to melt the butter, then remove and scatter the radishes and fresh herb leaves on top.

Wine Choice: Hamish Anderson’s wine choice 2007 Collioure, Cave de l’Abbé Rous, France £9.99, M&S. This complex array of flavours is easier on wine if you go down the mangetout/pea route. This will allow you to choose a tropical, smoky, creamy wine like this intriguing blend from the south of France that would otherwise clash with the wine-shy asparagus.

Serves 4 as a starter.

Image Credit: telegraph.co.uk

telegraph.co.uk

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