Penang………… and the Romance of Rail

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Hi folks – just a quickie this week on the train trip through South Thailand to Penang in Malaysia.

I was just there for the first time in years, and it really impressed me.

Here in Thailand we have this wonderful ‘visa run’ thing happening every 3 months, which invariably means a road trip to the nearest land border if you just need a re-entry, OR a flight to an actual city with a Thai consulate if you need the whole visa.

As I am in Phuket, Penang is a natural choice for me to visit.

I could have flown to Penang in around an hour, but why use a convenient spoonful of processed sugar when you can chew for hours on the thick, fibrous, unyielding cane?

I decided to take the train through South Thailand down to Butterworth, which was about a 12 hour trip with a sleeper carriage. I always like ‘experiences’, and train trips can be fun.

Who knows, they may go the same way as the video cassette and AM radio one day, and it will be nice to say “yes I did it!”
Getting the ticket is interesting. You can book through an agent and pay a fortune in US$. You can book in an agent in Thailand and pay anywhere from a fortune to a modest commission on top of the price. Or you can book with the railway directly and pick up tickets for a pittance.

The ACTUAL fare is around 680 baht if paid at Surat. I think the agent wanted to charge me 1800, and I got it for 1500 including minibus to Surat. So do the math on your actual train trip cost and bargain for a REASONABLE commission, OR book directly with the railway.

I would HIGHLY recommend (a couple of) train journeys in Thailand!

First I had to get from Phuket (an Island on the west coast of Thailand) to Surat Thani – a town on the east coast of the peninsula near the train line. Surat is the main departure point for Khao Sok National park, Koh Samui and Koh Pha Ngan.
I got a minibus that would arrive 3 hours early, (maybe planned that way to benefit the Surat massage and noodle vendors) and we hurtled towards my anticipated 2 hour massage and bowl of noodles at a somewhat frantic pace.

The frantic pace stopped with the minibus at Surat Central, and after my aching meat and tendons had been subdued by a titanium woman of about 65, it was time to find the railway and wait for the “Iron horse”.

The old beast rattled into Surat Thani station at around 2.45am – an hour and a half late, but no problem for me as I was reading “Crime and Criminals” and onto my fifth can of 35 baht chang beer.

The view upon entry was impressive – a shaking pitch black window and a background death rattle eased into darkness and a relaxing rhythmic clatter as we pulled away from the station, and then the lights went out. It was time to nod off, and I did exactly that as the movement of the carriage lulled me out of consciousness.

The next thing I knew, we had been invaded by Britain.
I had fallen asleep quite quickly, and the bed was comfortable. I think the sun rose around 6, at which stage the intrepid English travellers postured cheerfully and loudly, clamouring for their tea and toast and over-exaggerating their new found camaraderie at my end of the carriage.

Hindsight would suggest that they waited as one for the very crack of dawn to crow like roosters in nasal Midland tones and make disparaging remarks about the use of carriage toilets whilst in motion, the falling pound sterling and the superiority of Colman’s Mustard.

They could have whispered, but the sight of the sun had instilled them with both courage and vigour – more courage and vigour than it would take for me to keep sleeping, so it was time to succumb to the group consciousness.

I too greeted my fellow travellers, and arose to see the bottom half of Thailand chug by as I awaited sustenance.

Breakfast was, technically speaking, abominable. If one was to speak emotively or descriptively, it could go on for pages.

The eggs would seem to have come from the rear of a chicken – not necessarily in a shell, and it set the tone for the rest.

As an icebreaker, the breakfast was amazing. We bonded as a group, and laughed about the various ingredients and their preparation methods, and within an hour new friends were made.

We decided the toast was inspired by a piece of bread found pressed against the window glass – one side warm and firm, the other stale and cold.

We also discovered that it IS possible to commercially purchase and serve a colourful yet totally inedible and unappetising piece of thickly cut ham as 40% of a breakfast to a captive audience without a riot or mutiny breaking out.

Having said that, the dinner on the way back was amazing. A real taste of Thailand and a credit to any chef – ESPECIALLY for a railway!

The evening meal consisted of several dishes, all very tasty, fresh and well presented, and at an unbeatable 180 baht. A couple of bottle of beer, and dinner on the way back was also a convivial fun filled affair.

Anyhow, all in all, the trip was fun. The trains were a little old but in good repair, and the staff very professional and obviously good at their jobs.

Interestingly, a lot of effort went into making sure everybody who should be on the train WAS on the train, and that everyone at the station knew what was going on. This was excellent, especially being in a foreign country and all. The same in regards to getting off, with all care taken, and all passengers aware what was going on at all times.

The train wound its way through Northern Malaysia, arriving at the border around 7am, where we all hopped off the train and wound our way through Thai customs exit and Malaysian customs arrival.

A lot of comments were made by fellow travellers about the sign at Passport Control stating that Thailand would not admit travellers with “Hippy Characteristics”.

It is well worth a photo!

Then it was back on the same train, and whooshka – off to Butterworth.

We arrived at 1pm, and the station is a quick walk to the adjacent ferry to Penang.

This is VERY fast and extremely cheap, so don’t be tempted into a taxi. (The drivers will wait for you and try and talk you into an expensive lengthy trip back over the bridge)

There are lots of moneychangers everywhere – but surprisingly, the best rate I found was at my hotel, so do check around.
There is a moneychanger on the train also, and his rate is not too bad, so change a little to save you a hassle when you get off.
I stayed at Hotel Malaysia in Georgetown. A 3 to 4 star should set you back 100 ringgit a night (1000 baht) – but lots of inexpensive accommodation from 30 ringgit upwards.

Don’t worry about trip advisor – just walk around or get a samlor to pedal you around the centre, and you’ll find plenty to choose from.

For five star hotels, there are plenty of options and good deals online.

Anywhere in Georgetown is good, as it is the centre of the action.

You have Chinatown, Little India, the old British stuff and more than a few mosques, so it’s abuzz with food, drink, stuff to look at and things to buy.

VISA RUN PAPERWORK

LOTS of visa agents are in Penang. They are absolutely everywhere in Georgetown.

Basically, you check in, meet them, pay the money, fill out the forms, hand it over to them with passport, and that’s it. They do the work, you see Penang.

The great news is that the agents normally charge the same cost as doing it yourself.

More about Penang in a separate article, but I found it to be an interesting place, with friendly people and a great attitude towards visitors and guests.

Food was not as good as Thailand – Penang has “cleaned up” the street hawkers, and lost a lot of the charm and creativity that you get to love in Asia. But there is a lot of good food at reasonable prices, and they locals go out of their way to make you feel welcome.

Look to eat in restaurants, bars and cafes rather than on the street – and lots of great little local eateries that have become institutions in themselves.

Of course, the local specialties are all good, and some excellent Chinese dim sum and Indian restaurants as well.

You can get to Penang inexpensively by air by budget airlines Firefly, Tiger Airlines or Air Asia.

The train departs daily from Singapore to Butterworth and from Bangkok to Butterworth.

Plan to be on it.

Regards

Chef Shane

The Culinary Globe Trotter

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