Pierre Gagnaire – One of France’s Greatest Chefs and Restaurateurs
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An excellent restaurateur and an excellent chef, Chef Pierre Gagnaire is one of the top French chefs who have defined what fine dining really means. He, together with his brother, Jean, elevated their parents’ humble and quaint restaurant to one of the must-go-to restaurants in the world. Through them, the restaurant has earned numerous awards and recognitions from different award-giving bodies. Chef Gagnaire has long retired from directly overseeing and managing the kitchen of La Maison Troisgros, and his son, Chef Michel Troisgros, an equally talented chef, is now the one who heads the kitchen of the family restaurant. You could say that he is following on the footsteps of his father as he earned his own three Michelin stars and a spot in the S. Pellegrino list.
Chef Gagnaire was born in Chalon-sur-Saone on the 2nd of December 1926. He grew up surrounded by the aroma of food cooking and the hustle and bustle of a busy restaurant kitchen as their parents, Jean-Baptiste and Marie, manage and run the kitchen of Café des Negociants, situated at that time in Chalon-sur-Saone.
In 1930, when Chef Gagnaire was only about four years old, the whole family relocated to Roanne. It was there that they opened Hotel-Restaurant des Platanes which caters mostly to the middle class. Their parents had no formal culinary education, and what they serve to their clients are dishes that they have learned through their own parents and from their own experience. Because the couple relies on the business to take care of the family’s finances, they have instilled in their children the love and passion for cooking and the need to maintain a very excellent standard when it comes to the business.
The restaurant soon grew popular that, in 1935, they changed its name to Hotel Moderne. Because the brothers are expected to take control of the kitchen when their parents retire, Chef Gagnaire and his brother, Jean, began their apprenticeship and training at some of the top restaurants in the country. Chef Gagnaire went to Normandy where he found work and apprenticed in Etretat’s Hotel du Golf. He also went to the Basque Country and worked in the kitchens of Saint Jean de Luz. On the other hand, Jean found work in Paris.
Later on, both brothers worked in Paris in the kitchens of Lucas CArtion where they got to work and train under the tutelage of the famous French chef, Chef Gaston Richard. They also found landed a position in Vienne’s La Pyramide and worked under Chef Paul Mercier as well as Chef Fernand Point. Aside from this, they also landed jobs at the Maxim’s as well as at the Hotel de Crillon. It was also while they were in the city that they met Chef Paul Bocuse and created a lasting bond and relationship with the famous French chef.
In 1954, they went back to Roanne to take control over the kitchens of their family-owned restaurant, Hotel Moderne, when their father gave them the keys to the business. Chef Gagnaire was the head chef, while Jean was the master saucier. Their father was still very much active in the restaurant as he became the official maitre d’hotel as well as sommelier. By the next year, the restaurant received its first Michelin star, and three years later, in 1957, they then changed the name to Les Freres Troisgros.
Through the efforts of the brothers, Les Freres Troisgros’ reputation soon grew. Their extraordinary French cuisine became known for their sophistication and perfection that it became highly in-demand not only among the middle class but the upper class as well. In 1654, Michelin Guide gave them their second star and the third star in 1968. Aside from this, the restaurant also received recognition from Gault Millau in 1972 as the Best Restaurant in the World.
Meanwhile, Chef Gagnaire’s son, Michel, was starting his own journey to being a chef. He went to Grenoble where he furthered his culinary skill from the year 1974 to the year 1982. He also went across the globe to learn from great chefs such as Chefs Michel Guerard and Fredy Girardet. Clearly, he was going to follow in the footsteps of his father.
Jean’s death in 1983 prompted Chef Gagnaire to call his son home to help him manage the family business. So, after ten years of traveling and becoming an apprentice to some of the best chefs in the world, Michel went home to Roanne to help Chef Gagnaire run Les Freres Troisgos, with his wife taking a very active role in decorating and renovating the restaurant to suit the present times. The father and son tandem has also redefined their cuisine, taking it to a whole new level of elegance and excellence.
In 1998, Chef Gagnaire finally relinquished the kitchen reign over to his son. What used to be known as Les Freres Troisgros is now known as La Maison Troisgros, and under his son’s guidance, it became even more popular.
Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s Salmon with Sorrel
Ingredients:
- 2 pounds salmon
- 1 tablespoon peanut oil, for pounding
- 2 cups Pierre’s Fish Stock
- 2 medium shallots, finely chopped
- 1/3 cup dry white wine, preferably Sancerre
- 3 tablespoons dry vermouth
- 1 1/4 cups crème fraiche
- 4 ounces sorrel leaves (about 1 quart tightly packed), washed, stemmed, and large leaves torn into two or three pieces
- 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
- Freshly squeezed lemon juice
- Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
Procedures:
1.  Choose the thickest center section of the fish. Using a flexible boning knife, cut apart the two fillets, and carefully remove skin.
2.  With pliers, pull out the tiny bones hiding in the center of the flesh. They can be found by running fingers against the grain of the fish. Divide the fillets in half horizontally to make four pieces weighing about 6 ounces each.
3.  Lightly oil two pieces of parchment paper with peanut oil. Lay one piece of parchment on a flat surface. Place fish on parchment. Top with second piece of parchment. With a wooden mallet or the side of a cleaver, gently flatten so each fillet is of equal thickness.
4.  In a medium saucepan, combine fish stock and shallots. Bring to a boil, and cook until reduced to a glaze, 10 to 15 minutes. Add wine and vermouth, and continue to cook until bright and syrupy, about 3 minutes. Add crème fraiche, and boil until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Pass through a fine mesh sieve into a clean pan.
5.  Add sorrel, and cook for 25 seconds. Remove from heat. Add butter a little at a time, swirling or stirring with a wooden spoon until completely incorporated (be sure not to break up sorrel leaves). Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
6.  Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Season salmon on one side (the less presentable side) with salt and pepper. Place in pan, seasoned side up. Cook 25 seconds, turn, and cook 15 seconds more. The salmon must be undercooked to preserve its tenderness (it will continue to cook in the finished sauce).
7.  Distribute sauce among four large plates. Place salmon, seasoned side down, on plates. Season with salt. Serve immediately.
Image Credit: drinksmediawire.com
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